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Women’s Fashion, 1841

18-Nov-08

I’m reaching back into the farthest reaches of my collection to bring you these lovely fashions from 1841. This illustration comes from the November, 1841 issue of Godey’s Lady’s Book.

As you can see, the paper is so old that the edges are a bit stained and torn, but I love it and can overlook the flaws to be able to enjoy the styles of 170 years ago! The magazine goes into a bit of detail about each of the gowns, and I will copy those descriptions here so you can get a better sense of how the fashions were composed.

Fig. 1. Black velvet dress, plain high corsage trimmed with a puff, as is also the sleeves, which are tight; the wrists finished with a cuff, which, as well as the sides of the sleeves, are trimmed with fancy silk buttons: the skirt is ornamented with a deep border of fur. Large mantilla shawl of velvet, trimmed with fur. Bonnet of fancy silk.

Fig. 2. A plain colored mantle, made short enough to display the border of the dress. It is lined with cherry coloured stain, and trimmed with a cherry cord. White silk Bonnet, inside ornamented with flowers, outside with feathers.

Fig. 3. Rich satin pelisse: skirt trimmed with fur, tight sleeves, finished with a fur cuff. Large fur cape. Hat trimmed with feathers.

Fig. 4. Child’s dress is of coloured velvet made loose, confined with a cord and tassel, and trimmed with fancy buttons up the front. Large cape, with cotton bonnet and feathers.

A very good book which I happen to be reading right now is called “Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey” by Alison Gernsheim. The author uses 235 photographs from the years between 1840 and 1915 to illustrate exactly how fashions of the past looked on real people from that time period. This has been amazing to see, since normally we rely on fashion plates and illustrations for this purpose, and those tend to be highly idealized versions of everyday truth. I found much of what Gernsheim has to say about the first half of the 1840’s interesting, especially in light of the above illustration. According to her, and reflected in this fashion plate, sleeves were long and tight at this time, and colors were more delicate rather than being gaudy and bright. Also, bonnets often featured flowers inside the brim, a look which I really like. Here is a copy of a daguerreotype I found online of a woman wearing such a bonnet.

Courtesy of Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, DLC/PP-1920:46153

Courtesy of Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, DLC/PP-1920:46153


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Best thing since the vote? - 1960

17-Nov-08

I don’t really know what to say about the bold claim made in this ad! It appeared in the November 1960 issue of Good Housekeeping magazine, and extols the wonders of Tupperware. I have nothing against Tupperware, but I wouldn’t go quite so far about its worth…


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Bon Ami ad, 1910

17-Nov-08

This is an ad for Bon Ami cleanser, from the September 1910 issue of Good Housekeeping magazine. The picture of the chick and the slogan “hasn’t scratched yet” is familiar to most of us, but I am used to hearing the more recent version about this product (like “over 100 years and it hasn’t scratched yet!”) This ad, however, only had 18 years of experience to brag about.

According to the Bon Ami website, the reason the picture of the chick is used with the slogan is that newly-hatched chicks don’t “scratch” the ground for food such as worms right away. Instead, they live off the nutrients of the yolk. At the time Bon Ami was first produced, though, this was not as obscure a fact as it is for many of us today!


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Clothes for Entertaining, 1960

16-Nov-08

The November, 1960 issue of Good Housekeeping magazine featured a seven page spread on “the new, entertaining kind of holiday clothes.”

“Starting here: ten ways to be the prettiest hostess at the party. Slim pants and short-skirted separates in zingy colors, for informal evenings; and long-skirted at-home clothes in melting shades and venturesome prints. All together, these party-dress pages preview the easy, gala (and lovely!) look of The Holidays, 1960-61.”

I think the outfit in the photo at the top of this entry is my favorite, and something I would totally wear to a party myself! Many of the shoes in these photos are spectacular, too (and many of them are mules by Capezio, according to the magazine). Here is just a sampling of some of the other outfits from this fashion spread.


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Beauty Aids in 1918

13-Nov-08

This gorgeous ad comes from the back cover of the November 1918 issue of Milady Beautiful magazine. The magazine seems to have catered to fairly well-off women who were highly interested in beauty and fashion. Ads are included from various high-end companies, from New York jewelers to rare antiquities to furriers. The above ad, for Nardy’s Marinello face powder, appeals to such a consumer with its beauty and graceful art. It promises a lovely appearance as well as an exquisite fragrance, and even a picture of the elegant container in which it is packaged is featured in the bottom right corner.

Below is one more ad from this issue, this time for a pair of simple hair nets. The lady could buy two of them for 25 cents, and choose just the right color to match her hair perfectly.


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Toll-House Cookies Ad, 1942

12-Nov-08

Just because I’ve been so neglectful of the 1940’s lately, here is a bonus ad, also from the January 1942 issue of McCall’s. It is for everybody’s favorite, Toll-House Cookies! Just as is the case today, the recipe for these delicious chocolate-chip cookies were on the back of every wrapper of Nestle’s semi-sweet morsels. It didn’t take long for the cookies to become extremely popular and they remain that way today.


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The Family Thinks it’s Wild…

12-Nov-08

…but I love it!

So says a Betty, a young woman with her first job, about her newly-decorated bedroom pictured above. The photo and story come from the January 1942 issue of McCall’s magazine. As Betty explains it, she now has a job; but between lunches and bus fare and work clothes and the room-and-board she agrees to pay to her mother for living at home, she is practically penniless! So any decorating Betty would do would have to be very inexpensive.

With the help of her friends, she came up with the unusual bedroom above. About the curtains, she says “I designed those clouds and daisies, and appliqued them on. They’re a touch of Dali.”

Of the pink table: “We salvaged an old piano bench from the attic and painted it white with fuchsia legs. Then all my loyal assistants wrote their names or slogans on it - and it’s now a coffee table.”

And finally, “Aunt Sue’s birthday $5 bought the yacht chair, and the ladder-back chairs were only $1.80 apiece unpainted.”

Even though I’m not a huge fan of the overall look of the room, I definitely see where I could use some of her basic ideas in my own decorating. And in the end, she got a totally new look (especially for the early 1940’s) and still had enough money for all of her other new responsibilities!

Betty ends by asking the reader,

“Now tell me, is it as wild as the family thinks, or as nice as I think it is?”


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The Business Girl

11-Nov-08

Many women in the early 1900’s found themselves working in a business setting, especially before they were married. Usually it was secretarial work, dictation and typing and things of that nature.

In the above advertising brochure from 1908, we meet a typical working girl of the time, Ida, who is overjoyed by the fact that her boss has provided her with Munson’s Pneumatic Keys. If you read the attached letter that “Ida” has typed to her friend (click below to see it more clearly), you learn that typing on the normal typewriter of a century ago was full of problems; such as a glare that irritates the eyes and finger nails knocking on the glass keys. Ida complains to her boss, who she greatly admires because “he is uniformly cheerful, and most amazing of all, he never sits at his desk and roars for some of the girls to come and wait on him–he lets the office boy do the choosing!” Sure enough, when she returns from the next day’s dictation, the glare is gone and the pneumatic keys are in place!

Well, now that Ida is able to get back to work and do her job in more fortuitous circumstances, we can move on to her wardrobe. She is wearing a lovely, lacy white blouse which I happen to think looks very nice, but others at the time had differing opinions. The September 15, 1910 issue of the Ladies’ Home Journal had a feature entitled “Office Clothes for the Business Girl” and in it they begin with the following advice:

To begin with, clothes to be worn in a business office should be of the tailor-made order to be workmanlike as well as to be in good taste. Lace-trimmed blouses or fancy dresses are out of place, and they are also far more expensive for two reasons: first because they usually cost more in the beginning, and second because they wear out quicker.

The article suggests materials that do not wrinkle easily and that are sturdy enough to wear often, as well as simple patterns like checks that do not show stains. They also suggest dresses when possible because they are warmer on raw, winter mornings and are also neat and appropriate. For variety, the woman can change up the collars at her neck. Below are some examples of dresses that the magazine feels would be good choices for the woman who works in a business setting.


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Some Advertisements from 1917

10-Nov-08

Keds ad, from the August 1917 issue of McCalls magazine. This was one year after the Keds brand was introduced in 1916, according to the Keds website. Per the ad, Keds are ‘the finest, best looking, best made canvas rubber-soled shoes”. Because of these quiet rubber soles, (according to the Keds website), the term sneaker was coined because they let people “sneak around!”

This ad, also from the same issue of McCall’s, is for Resinol soap. Many ads at the time attempted to frighten women into making sure they did not suffer from the conditions mentioned in the ads. Because the people in the ads were usually completely unaware of the problems they suffered from (bad breath, poor skin, body odor), it made sense that the consumer could possibly also be just as ignorant of these problems in her own life! It was better to be safe than sorry, and to just buy the product. The lovely young woman in this ad “would be a pretty girl if it wasn’t for her miserable complexion!” But alas, it was a pity she did not know Resinol soap would clear her skin.


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Hairdos from 1970

10-Nov-08

“Layered, all one length, short in front, short in back, straight or curly, full or shaped to the head - your hair can make you a woman of many looks.”

These photos, and their accompanying text, are from the November 1970 issue of Family Circle magazine. I have included all six of the pages because these are such perfect examples of the look of the early 1970’s! Makeup, hair, jewelry, all are here to enjoy. Having curly hair myself, I’m partial to the short blond curly bob on the last page, but I’m sure you’ll be able to find a favorite, too.


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